Wednesday, September 6. So Claire really got kicked out?
Day 6: Energetic riders can do a challenging but rewarding ride
to the fabulous monastery of Monte Oliveto Maggiore before looping into
the regular ride to the isolated villages of Montisi and Castelmuzio.
Giovanni Tolomei of Siena founded the Benedictine order of Monte Oliveto
Maggire in 1313. Upon arrival at Monte Oliveto you will want to seek out
the Great Cloister where famous frescoes are found depicting the life of St.
Benedict. Lunch can be eaten at the monastery which has a little restaurant
with a lovely shaded terrace, or you might prefer to picnic somewhere nearby
and enjoy the spectacular views over the eroded valleys and steep gullies of
the Crete Senese. Cycling distance for our regular ride is 26 miles, or
choose an optional rout of 33 miles or a hilly 31 mile route via the monastery.
To the monastery
We ride up to the monastery. David and I point nervously at the part in
the directions where it says "15% grade". The climb isn't
nearly as bad as it was advertised. The 15% grade climb turns out to
be a very short stretch of road that's actually quite refreshing to climb.
At the turnoff for the monastery I slip on some gravel. I manage to
recover my balance but realize that I'll go over the edge of a cliff
if I continue to roll forward. I decide to bail but manage to land
on my feet with cat-like grace. Heh!
When the others catch up they all turn into the "out" driveway
with the "do not enter" sign in front of it which is far from
the cliff I almost explored. Well, some of us are just a little bit
smarter than the rest. Okay, smarter than me.
Nello explains the history of the monastery before taking us inside to show us the
frescos. We don't get a chance to see everything before 12:00 hits, and a stylishly-dressed
monk kicks us out.
After viewing the frescoes, we go to the monastery gift shop. Lynda buys
some herbal cold remedies for Cindy who stayed back at the hotel with her
sinus infection. Lawrence creates a scene when he asks to taste the tooth
paste that's sold there.
We have a picnic lunch on the Monastery grounds. These people make even
simple salted meat (okay, it's salami) taste wonderful.
Dinner at a farmhouse
Dinner is at an agriturismo, something like a country bed and breakfast.
After we arrive by van, the proprietor proudly shows us the white cattle
we'll be eating. Nello tells us they are called "Chianini".
Outside, some of the young calves are prancing about, playing. A young kitten
also scampers about, chasing all kinds of things we can't see and charming us
all.
They serve us antipasti on an outside table with some sparkling wine, mixed
with blood orange juice, for those of that want it.
The view is so stunning that no postcard, poster, or painting could possibly
capture its effect. When the skies begin to darken they light candles for us.
The citronella candles laid on the ground remind me of the scene (you know the
one) in The English Patient.
We move inside for dinner which our host Bartolo serves us from huge platters.
By now, Cindy has fallen in love with the guy. Unfortunately, he's recently
married. I'm trying to capture with words what that dinner was like, but
words like "incredible" and "filling" just ring hollow.
I think it was because it wasn't just the food. I felt like the group
really bonded tonight.
We share our plans for after the bike trip is over. Janet plans to go
hiking in the Dolomites. Wayne is going on another bike trip in France.
Steve and Joanne announce that they've been saving an old bottle of
Brunello (I believe it was an '85?) for a special occasion, and that
they'll open it for the first one of our group to show up at their house.
After taking the van back to the hotel, a number of us find a local bar where
we drink too many grappas and stay out too late.
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